Vanished on Denali: The Frozen Secret of an Ice Cave

The Ascent Begins

In the summer of 2005, Scott McCandless, a 41-year-old construction company owner from Colorado, set his sights on Denali, North America’s highest peak. He wasn’t a professional climber, but with a decade of experience and several Rocky Mountain summits under his belt, he was ready for his biggest challenge yet. Determined to be safe, Scott hired a guide through Alaska Summit Guides—a reputable company in Anchorage. His assigned guide was Pembbea Lakpa, a seasoned Sherpa from Nepal, with Everest experience and glowing credentials.

The plan was straightforward: acclimatize, ascend via the standard route through the Kahiltna Glacier, and reach the summit in about two weeks. Scott paid $8,000 upfront, signed the contract, and prepared meticulously. On June 14th, Scott and Pembbea flew out to Denali’s base camp at 2,000 meters. The weather was clear, and the mood optimistic.

Tensions on the Mountain

For the first days, everything went smoothly. The duo moved slowly, set up camps, and checked in by radio each night. But as they reached 3,800 meters, the weather worsened and tempers frayed. On June 21st, Scott made a troubling diary entry: Pembbea was demanding an extra $5,000 in cash, threatening to abandon him if he didn’t pay. Scott had already paid in full. That evening, Scott radioed base camp, reporting the conflict. The operator advised both to descend together and settle the dispute at base camp.

That was the last time anyone heard Scott’s voice.

The Disappearance

On June 22nd, Pembbea contacted base camp alone. He claimed Scott had left the tent at night to use the toilet and never returned. Pembbea said he searched for hours but found no trace. He suggested Scott had fallen into a hidden crevasse—a common danger on Denali.

Rescuers mobilized quickly, but bad weather hampered their efforts. They combed the area, descended into crevasses, but found nothing. After several days, with storms raging and visibility near zero, the search was called off. Scott’s family was devastated. His wife flew in, pleaded for continued search efforts, but the odds were grim. In August 2005, the case was closed as an accident. Officially, Scott was presumed dead, lost to the mountain.

Lingering Doubts

Scott’s family didn’t accept the accident theory. They hired a private investigator who uncovered troubling patterns: Pembbea had a history of aggressive behavior and demanding extra money from clients. He also had significant debts. But there was no hard evidence—no body, no crime.

The Ice Cave Discovery

Two years later, in July 2007, a team of Canadian cavers exploring Denali’s rare ice caves made a shocking discovery. Deep inside a vertical ice shaft at 3,900 meters, they found a human body—frozen upside down, legs tied with climbing rope to ice hooks embedded in the cave wall. The corpse was encased in ice, as if deliberately doused with water to speed up freezing and concealment.

The team called authorities. Rangers, a medical examiner, and detectives arrived. They carefully extracted the body and found Scott’s identification in his backpack. It was Scott McCandless—missing for two years, presumed dead in an accident. But this was no accident. The body had trauma to the head, likely from a blunt object. The way the body was hung, the extra layer of ice, and the professional knots all pointed to murder.

The Investigation Reopens

Detectives found crucial evidence: the rope tying Scott’s legs was from a batch sold to Alaska Summit Guides, issued specifically to Pembbea Lakpa. DNA analysis found Pembbea’s DNA on the rope and carabiner used in the cave, and Scott’s blood on Pembbea’s harness. The evidence was overwhelming.

Pembbea was arrested. He denied everything, claiming a setup. But the timeline was clear: a conflict over money, Scott’s last radio call, Pembbea’s suspicious story, and the forensic trail led straight to him.

Justice Served

In March 2008, Pembbea Lakpa stood trial for first-degree murder. The prosecution laid out the evidence: DNA, rope markings, Scott’s blood, diary entries, and radio recordings. Witnesses testified, including the cavers who found the body and Pembbea’s own brother, who recalled Pembbea’s complaints about disrespectful clients and financial stress.

The jury deliberated for two days and found Pembbea guilty. He was sentenced to 25 years without parole and ordered to pay $500,000 in compensation to Scott’s family. Pembbea appealed, but the conviction stood.

Aftermath

Scott’s body was cremated and his ashes scattered in the Colorado mountains he loved. His family finally had answers, though the pain remained. The case changed guiding regulations in Alaska: guides now face stricter background checks, financial screenings, and mandatory check-ins. The ice cave where Scott was found is now sealed, a grim reminder of the mountain’s dangers.

The story of Scott McCandless is now a legend among climbers—a warning that Denali’s greatest threats aren’t always the weather, the ice, or the altitude, but sometimes, the person you trust to lead you up the mountain.